transmission idea

[lowrydesign]

just an idea, maybe i'm not the first.. but ive wanted to get a trans case made that can use the newer 2.6:1 "b4 t4 sc10" parts but still match up to the original stealth plate/chassis...

only thing that i see that should change would be the height of the out drives. its going to have to be ultra precise and it could even be made out of delrin..to keep cost down... i defiantly think this would be awesome for all the guys here that use their rc10s a lot, and with all the original parts starting to be discontinued slowly "ie the left out drive" i think this would be a great fix for us

i don't know if any of you have the capabilities to do this or maybe you know someone but id love to get the ball rolling on this

let me know what you all think....

[scr8p]

i don't see how it could work without mods to the chassis (notching for the larger gear), clearancing the bukhead, and you would definately have to drill and tap new mounting points in the motor plate.

[murphy3428]

Alex at Inet did that on his sprints here is the link http://www.inetrc.com/Album/RC10_InetSprint/

[lowrydesign]

i don't see how it could work without mods to the chassis (notching for the larger gear), clearancing the bukhead, and you would definately have to drill and tap new mounting points in the motor plate.

if you raise up the diff gear to compensate for the diameter you wouldnt have to mod the chassis.. just relocated the idler gear.....you would have to drill new holes, unless you mounted half the box to the plate using the original holes and used new 4-40s to hold only the case together

[aeiou]

...unless you mounted half the box to the plate using the original holes and used new 4-40s to hold only the case together

Possibly also run a screw in from the opposite side of the motor plate, similar to the MIP change box.

[scr8p]

if you raise the diff, you will lose 2 original mounting points. actually, you'd lose them whether you raised it or not. move the idler gear up and forward to compensate for the larger diff, now you just lost a third. the only one you could possibly reuse would be the one along side the topshaft.

you'd also be messing with the dogbone angles raising the diff. the suspension geometry might have to be changed to compensate for it.

[jwscab]

Probably the best way to do it would be to use an adapter plate that would provide a cutout for the gearbox, allow for whatever case screws needed (countersunk so they are flush) then attach to the chassis via the arm mounts. This will effectively maintain rear geometry except make the chassis slightly lower by the thickness of the plate in the rear

[lowrydesign]

defiantly keep the ideas flowing guys!

[scr8p]

personally, i'd rather see something happen with a 2.40 diff. there's still plenty of 2.40 parts out there. custom works still uses them in their electric kits, and that thunder tiger buggy has the b3 trans in it too.

[jwscab]

The 2.40 trans would be even easier using a plate like I said......i can draw something up if interested......

[Charlie don't surf]

The 2.40 does not need a plate, just 2 .20 spacers and an L bracket- but Gregg really wants to use a 2.60 diff for the gear and gear options-

[lowrydesign]

The 2.40 does not need a plate, just 2 .20 spacers and an L bracket- but Gregg really wants to use a 2.60 diff for the gear and gear options-

im not opposed to the b3 parts... i just like the 2.6 ratio a lil better

how much bigger is the 2.4 gear over the original?

[jwscab]

yeah, i just took a look, a 2.40 fits on the back stealth holes and can be installed with spacers, but the forward case screw will interfere with the bulkhead so it needs to removed or the bulkhead needs to be clearanced. a S type bracket or a small flat bracket and some standoffs would complete the upper mount.

[lowrydesign]

yeah, i just took a look, a 2.40 fits on the back stealth holes and can be installed with spacers, but the forward case screw will interfere with the bulkhead so it needs to removed or the bulkhead needs to be clearanced. a S type bracket or a small flat bracket and some standoffs would complete the upper mount.

but now the use of the b2 b3 motor mount is needed.. right

[jwscab]

yes. whatever it would look like to mount to the chassis, it might need a trim or tweak.

certainly not out of the realm of possibility to retrofit the existing motor plate, but I was thinking the least invasive transplant so as not to ruin all those precious gold pan parts

as Scr8p said, the thundertiger version of the parts should be available, and relatively cheap too.