RC10DS Rebuild

RC10/12/100/200/250/300/500/Dual Sport
General discussion, builds/restorations etc...

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Coelacanth
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Re: RC10DS Rebuild

Post by Coelacanth »

Right...Rustoleum paint isn't meant to bond or flex like polycarbonate paint does.
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Re: RC10DS Rebuild

Post by LoboNYC »

Gotcha jwinker. Well at least you are getting the practice in painting techniques.

Im afraid SFC K has a very valid point with regards to your choice of paint. you need polycarbonate paint for Lexan bodies.

I made the mistake of using a cool bright orange color spray paint on a body to find out that on the first light impact a lot of areas of oranged literraly shattered off the body.

There was orange flakes everywhere. biggest mistake ever! :shock:

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Re: RC10DS Rebuild

Post by jwinker »

Time will tell with the grey...and part of the reason I'm not too concerned about the quality of the paint job or the longevity of the work - or being too nice to the car! I can say, so far the ROL seems SIGNIFICANTLY more durable than the Tamiya paint. It is formulated for plastics, like outdoor furniture. I realize those are typically ABS and not Lexan and Poly, but my first impressions are, "It was worth the $3.49 risk."

If it flakes, it flakes. I had already botched the roof when I bought it, so at least I have saved a few $$$ on my mistakes.

Accentuate the positives...

Harvey Wood
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Re: RC10DS Rebuild

Post by Harvey Wood »

I have a DS at the same time like TCorzett it would never be competitive. Anyway i like my DS.

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Re: RC10DS Rebuild

Post by knucklebuster »

jwinker wrote:the ROL seems SIGNIFICANTLY more durable than the Tamiya paint. It is formulated for plastics, like outdoor furniture.
I have used the same paint on used bodies with horrible paint jobs. That paint has proven to be durable on the outside of the body. It probably helps that the bodies are already scuffed from being used.

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