Got this 12e today from a friend who found it on CL. I traded him for a paintjob. The plan is to clean it up, get a TBG body off the bay for it. It came with a Futaba receiver and white IC servos but he kept those. Tires are hard as a rock and depending if I can find pre-mounted and trued tires, it might become a runner with modern electronics. If I can't find any, it will collect dust on the shelf.
That car's in good condition for an RC12E. Most of the ones I find are total wrecks. I have a set of pre mounted wheels that will go on that car if you can't find any. Gomachv had a ton of them for sale a while back. You'll need to stay with two hole wheels unless you plan on changing out the rear axle and hubs. All the modern 1/12 cars are using three hole wheels and hubs.
Yeah, I'm gonna need the old 2 hole style wheel as I'm going to keep it all original. I did find 1 brand new front and rear wheel each in the box. Bout to order the body. Got a sweet livery in mind.
I have an old 12E, and Parma panther, I intend to fix them both up in the near future. My 12E has a different front end on it though, and I can't tell you what parts they are..these used to belong to a friend of mine, and I'm pretty sure he cobbled the car up from available parts..
Here's pics.
You might not like my answer, but if it's a solid axle no diff I would just dremel it in half and press out the hubs with a vice or press. Thr solid axles aren't hard to find in fact I'm sure I have one to donate. If it's the hollow axle or diff then of course it's worth saving.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
cashrc wrote:I have an old 12E, and Parma panther, I intend to fix them both up in the near future. My 12E has a different front end on it though, and I can't tell you what parts they are..these used to belong to a friend of mine, and I'm pretty sure he cobbled the car up from available parts..
Here's pics.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
gomachv wrote:You might not like my answer, but if it's a solid axle no diff I would just dremel it in half and press out the hubs with a vice or press. Thr solid axles aren't hard to find in fact I'm sure I have one to donate. If it's the hollow axle or diff then of course it's worth saving.
It's got a diff. I just hosed it down with WD40, gonna try and pull on it later. Thanks for the offer on the axle, I'll let you know what happens.
gomachv wrote:You might not like my answer, but if it's a solid axle no diff I would just dremel it in half and press out the hubs with a vice or press. Thr solid axles aren't hard to find in fact I'm sure I have one to donate. If it's the hollow axle or diff then of course it's worth saving.
It's got a diff. I just hosed it down with WD40, gonna try and pull on it later. Thanks for the offer on the axle, I'll let you know what happens.
I would try spraying everything liberally with PB Blaster, that's the best penetrating lubricant I've used. I sprayed it down all the spark plug holes of my Charger's motor before turning it over after it had sat for over 8 years without being run, and the next day it turned over fine and fired up once the gas was feeding into the carb. Anytime I have a bolt or nut that's seized and needs to be removed without shearing it off, I spray it with PB Blaster and let it sit 24 hours. It just might work, and won't harm anything.
Reviews say it all; this is local, Canadian Tire is a huge franchise in Canada, but you get the idea.
cashrc wrote:I have an old 12E, and Parma panther, I intend to fix them both up in the near future. My 12E has a different front end on it though, and I can't tell you what parts they are..these used to belong to a friend of mine, and I'm pretty sure he cobbled the car up from available parts..
Here's pics.
Kroil if you can find it or a blend of automatic trans fluid and kerosene will loosen pretty much anything. So tapping wiggling, general manipulation will help break up the oxidation.
Still working on it. I've been prying, tapping, twisting and rigging up all types of stuff to try and get this hub off. The washers and bearing are all frozen to the axle too. The dremel might be coming out soon, I've got another hub. I just want to save the axle.
So after I put the axle in a tub of WD40 and forgetting about it for a WHOLE MONTH, I finally got the hub to move with a little prying. I ruined the shims, scratched up the hub and the bearing is still stuck to the axle. Anyone know the part # for the shims and the bearing size on the rear axle?
I am looking to restore my first RC car an RC12e that I originally purchased in 1981 or 1982. After racing it for a few years I put it on a shelf. I later decided to have some fun and tried running it with an Cox .049, what I didn't know was how big...
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Fantastic, Thanks! I was able to print off the photo's to the exact size first time. Now I can either measure or glue the photo to the G-10 directly.
I've had this for a while now, i was going to try and restore it, but i might just sell it as i have to many projects and not enough money, can some one please let me know what these are woth now
Cheers Rob
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very nice 12E you have there.
what rc on road had the straight front axel? it looks like a minature rc10L with an aluminum straight front axel.
What straight/aluminum front axle, pictured above , are you talking about?
I bought this little RC12 recently. I'm pretty sure it's an RC12E, but on the body that came with it there are decals saying RC12EX.
Even with google i've not found out much about an RC12EX, can anyone enlighten me a bit? Or am i just looking at a...
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Definitely a Schkee body but I'm not sure which manufacturer. They were made by MRP, Parma, Bolink and most likely more around the world. I don't remember any of them having front fender flares like yours.
I had a lot of 12e parts from ebay lying around and found a chassis but it was drilled and rough. Decided to build a pin router and make a new g10 chassis. Here's some pics
Pin router. Bit sticks up the height of the NEW part, the overhead pin...
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Those are what I was referring to, they well them retail as Roto-Zip branded parts.
I was fortunate to find this at a garage sale a very long time ago. I did go thru it about 7 years ago and serviced the diff cleaned the bearings and dressed up the motor. It is a runner.... although I don't run it.
Is this an rc12E, or just a clone?
I kinda like the look of the body too: any ideas what it is?
I'm considering to buy this. Do current wheels and spurs still fit, or should I upgrade to another rear axle for that?