My RC10 World's Re-Re Pre-Build Q's

[howaboutme]

Hello,

I have a kit ready to start but since I am still fresh into the hobby (actually returned after 30 years) I'd like to have a thread where I can ask questions and get advice w/o starting fresh threads each time. In this case, I can have everything in one place for me to reference (and others too!).

I just completed my first kit after returning, a Tamiya Hotshot Re-re. I chose that one because it was my first car as a kid and so it was intended to get my feet wet and to start to learn some of the language in this hobby. The HS will be used mostly around the parks, yard, etc and that's it. However, my RC10 build will have more of a goal. I'd like to eventually start racing at my local tracks and I would like to use this car to learn and get to a point that investing in a more modern car would make sense. I am under no illusion that upgrading this kit will get me to the finish line first. But by building this and upgrading and carefully choosing parts/electronics, the knowledge gained will be priceless. So here are some guiding principles (and money IS an object):

- Car will be sensored/brushless using 2S lipo (my local tracks guidelines) in stock 17.5T class.
- Handle well on dirt or clay tracks (still to be determined exact conditions as I haven't visited the 2 tracks yet)
- Top of the line is not something I am interested. I am interested in a balance between performance and cost and the reasoning pros/cons behind it.
- Others to be added...

Electronics:

- Savox SC-1257TG Servo
- Futaba F204GF (to pair w/ my 3PV)
- Hobbywing Justock 17.5T ESC/Motor Combo

So, that said, I have read a lot of the threads here (special thanks to @joey_zrl especially + @Zac_F71 also has a very detailed upgrade list) and elsewhere and have some indications of what should be done which leads to my first few questions:

1. Will the included BBs be adequate for racing or will upgrading help? - Yes
2. Upgrade shocks to big bore. Is this a must? - BB springs only.
3. A few reviews have stated to upgrade the "flanged bearings" for steering. What is that? Some recommend the Kyosho flanged bearings but it may be discontinued. Alternatives? - Using Boca bearings @ $4 a piece. Ouch!
4. Upgraded battery strap and thumbscrews - Have # 1787.
5. Extra spur gear. - Have 72T.
6. RPM ball cups.
7. Lunsford Punisher TI turnbuckles
8. Others to be added...

Thanks in advance!

Note: Text in red are updates.

[bully]

Kit bearings are fine mate.

BB shocks are definitely not a must, I do recommend BB springs on the small bore shocks. Very easy an you get most of the benefits without the weight..

Any 1/4" by 3/8 flanged bearings will work,check out avid rc...

Stock strap is fine when used with 4/40 thumb screws from team associated..

[howaboutme]

Kit bearings are fine mate.

BB shocks are definitely not a must, I do recommend BB springs on the small bore shocks. Very easy an you get most of the benefits without the weight..

Any 1/4" by 3/8 flanged bearings will work,check out avid rc...

Stock strap is fine when used with 4/40 thumb screws from team associated..

Thank you!

I looked at avid rc, what's the difference between the flanged "metal" and "revolution"? Both same price.

[jwscab]

revolution has rubber seals on one side to better protect the internals. worth it if you are running in wet or dusty environments, or aren't on the cutting edge of speed.

[howaboutme]

revolution has rubber seals on one side to better protect the internals. worth it if you are running in wet or dusty environments, or aren't on the cutting edge of speed.

Thanks! So if I am looking to primarily run on dirt/clay, revolution would be the way to go. Appreciate it.

[joey_zrl]

These are the flanged bearings that I used for the steering. At the time, they looked like a better deal than the Associated bearings. If Avid has them with rubber seals, I would opt for those if you are racing.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD093

[RC10th]

+1 on the big bore springs on the V2 shocks.

[howaboutme]

All,

I finally got a chance to open the box and dig through the parts. I see 4 1/4" by 3/8 flanged bearings in the parts bag but I only see needing 2 in the instructions. How many do I need? I assume 2 and the other are spares?

Next question is about the pinion. Is the appropriate method for choosing gearing to first decide on motor? Then use those specs like torgue and # of turns to decide on pinion and spur? I plan to use a 17.5T brushless with the eventual goal of racing stock. The track's I plan to run on do have long straights so I should be concerned w/ top end speed? Which means a higher teeth count to match the 81 spur included? Because a 17.5T motor is a "higher turn" motor, it should handle a higher teeth count? Am I getting this correct?

So much to absorb...

Thanks!

[joey_zrl]

On page 18 of the owner's manual it has a gearing chart for various motors. For 17.5T they suggest 30/81 as a starting point. That gearing is recommended for zero timing (ie. spec class).

My esc and motor are locked at zero timing for stock spec-class racing. So for more speed, I had to change the ratio to 31/72.

If timing is allowed at your track, I would suggest 21/81 as a starting point as the chart in the owner's manual suggests. After testing on your track, you may find that you need a little more speed to clear a jump, or you may be falling short on the straightaway. So I would suggest that you pick up a variety of pinion gears like 22t, 23t, 24t.

Then fine tune your esc settings like punch control, timing, throttle and brake curves to match your style.

The changes you need to make will come to you the more you drive your car. One piece of advice is to make one change at a time, and see what it does. That's the best way to learn.

[howaboutme]

On page 18 of the owner's manual it has a gearing chart for various motors. For 17.5T they suggest 30/81 as a starting point. That gearing is recommended for zero timing (ie. spec class).

My esc and motor are locked at zero timing for stock spec-class racing. So for more speed, I had to change the ratio to 31/72.

If timing is allowed at your track, I would suggest 21/81 as a starting point as the chart in the owner's manual suggests. After testing on your track, you may find that you need a little more speed to clear a jump, or you may be falling short on the straightaway. So I would suggest that you pick up a variety of pinion gears like 22t, 23t, 24t.

Then fine tune your esc settings like punch control, timing, throttle and brake curves to match your style.

The changes you need to make will come to you the more you drive your car. One piece of advice is to make one change at a time, and see what it does. That's the best way to learn.

Thank you!

I plan to run blinky for just the reason so I can learn about non-electronic modifications first before I dive into esc adjustments. In fact, I am looking into getting the same esc/motor combo as you.

That said, 30/81 is a good starting point but gather a few other pinion/spur options to test once I've had a chance to run the car? I see page 18.

Any idea of the flanged bearings? I assume I'll only need 2, for the front, even though bag contains 4?

Thanks!

[RC10th]

The steering bellcranks take 4 bearings in total, 2 for the bottom sides and 2 for the top.

[howaboutme]

The steering bellcranks take 4 bearings in total, 2 for the bottom sides and 2 for the top.

Ah..thank you. Now I see the 4. I really should do this after my kids are in bed.

[joey_zrl]

Yes, a quiet building area does wonders. I've been there bro. Just a quick note, when you're assembling the steering rack assembly, leave the nose piece off until you get the white plastic washers seated under the assembly. It makes it a lot easier to maneuver things where you want them. Once you get everything in place, tighten the nuts down until the steering operates freely with very little to no up/down play. Although the goal is to get it adjusted tight enough so that the washers do not move from their positions.

The manual will guide you well 'during' the build, but I'm just pointing out something that will help you if you ever have to "go back in" for any reason 'after' the build.

[howaboutme]

Thanks Joey!

So..went to my LHS, which is always dangerous. Instead of ordering the Avid bearings from online, I bought these Boca bearings:

https://www.bocabearings.com/products/fr168-2gs-2604

They are 4x's more expensive but I like supporting my LHS for odds and ends like this and I assume these are better....

I also picked up a 30T and 31T pinion plus a 72T spur to go w/ the kit spur on your advice. These are very premature since I don't even have the motor yet...but like I said, going to LHS is dangerous. Plus, always good to stock up. The pinions are aluminum, was looking for steel but the price was good and I am not sure I will need steel or if it will go well with the plastic spur anyways. Tried to find some 4-40 thumb screws but no luck, not critical right now anyways.

[GoMachV]

computer stores are a great source for those thumb screws in a 3mm, which is fully compatible. Probably even find them at a Best Buy! Case modders like them