New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
New o-rings, a bit of green slime and trimming some tiny burrs and both front shock seals slipped in first time.
Can't say what it was that made the difference, but they're done now and back on the car.
Now just need to mount the wheels and tyres, fit the motor and electrics, then sort the body and undertray.
Can't say what it was that made the difference, but they're done now and back on the car.
Now just need to mount the wheels and tyres, fit the motor and electrics, then sort the body and undertray.
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Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
Good news about the shocks
BAd news that we'll never really know what happened 


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Life is short. Waste it wisely.
Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
For future reference - if I wanted to change to the newer threaded body shocks, is it just a case of getting the threaded shock bodies and reusing the existing shafts and pistons etc?
I can find .71 threaded shock bodies, for the front but can't find any 1.32 for the rear.
I can find .71 threaded shock bodies, for the front but can't find any 1.32 for the rear.
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Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
if you get the V1 threaded bodies, yes, its just a direct swap. V2 requires some slightly different seals but will also work. 1.32" bodies were available at team associated on special, but may be gone now. also can get the other sizes. 1.39" are longer obviously, so need to check how that works on your setup if those are all you can find. 1.32" v2 bodies are discontinued and hard to find.
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Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
I doubt most would notice .060”
There are 1.18 bodies as well but they use a 1.02 shaft

There are 1.18 bodies as well but they use a 1.02 shaft
Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
Thanks. I guessed the seals would be different. Same size o-rings though? In which case I'm covered for o-rings.jwscab wrote: ↑Fri Dec 08, 2017 10:40 am if you get the V1 threaded bodies, yes, its just a direct swap. V2 requires some slightly different seals but will also work. 1.32" bodies were available at team associated on special, but may be gone now. also can get the other sizes. 1.39" are longer obviously, so need to check how that works on your setup if those are all you can find. 1.32" v2 bodies are discontinued and hard to find.
Do you know any part numbers for the v1 threaded bodies? I've only seen the v2s.
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Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
yeah i should correct what I mean. the seals are the same, but the v2 uses a screw on bottom so the seal stackup of washers, orings, etc is different.
1.39"
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7412-ASC7412-ft_threaded_shock_bodies_1_39_in/
they are out of stock on the 1.32" but you can probably find them from vendors.
.89"
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9312-ASC9312-ft_threaded_shock_bodies_89_in_stroke/
you know, it doesn't look like they ever made .71 v1 threaded shock bodies. V2 are available.
Jeff, yeah, the difference is .060", but out at the hub it's multiplied, and if you are already bottoming out on the shock body, it will limit travel that much more. probably not an issue, but wanted to make sure it was mentioned.
1.39"
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7412-ASC7412-ft_threaded_shock_bodies_1_39_in/
they are out of stock on the 1.32" but you can probably find them from vendors.
.89"
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/9312-ASC9312-ft_threaded_shock_bodies_89_in_stroke/
you know, it doesn't look like they ever made .71 v1 threaded shock bodies. V2 are available.
Jeff, yeah, the difference is .060", but out at the hub it's multiplied, and if you are already bottoming out on the shock body, it will limit travel that much more. probably not an issue, but wanted to make sure it was mentioned.
Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
Well this is frustrating.
I tired to mount the motor yesterday, only to find that the mounting holes on my Reedy brushless motor didn't quite match up to the holes in the motor plate. Thanks to some helpful suggestions I solved that with a bit of filing.
Next I wanted to fit the wheels. I've fitted the front and rear conversion kits for more modern wheels. Rear wheels went on fine, as did one of the front ones.
The other front is not playing ball. None of the bearings from the front conversion kit will fit on that stub axle. They all fit fine on the other side.
I've tried a little bit of filing on the leading edge of the axle to try and remove and burrs, not that I could see or feel any. But that hasn't helped. I've used my digital calipers and both axles measure the same, although I doubt my calipers are perfectly accurate or precise enough.
I've sent a message to the supplier I got the kit from, hoping they can help me out with a replacement axle. Other than that I don't know what to do.
I tired to mount the motor yesterday, only to find that the mounting holes on my Reedy brushless motor didn't quite match up to the holes in the motor plate. Thanks to some helpful suggestions I solved that with a bit of filing.
Next I wanted to fit the wheels. I've fitted the front and rear conversion kits for more modern wheels. Rear wheels went on fine, as did one of the front ones.
The other front is not playing ball. None of the bearings from the front conversion kit will fit on that stub axle. They all fit fine on the other side.
I've tried a little bit of filing on the leading edge of the axle to try and remove and burrs, not that I could see or feel any. But that hasn't helped. I've used my digital calipers and both axles measure the same, although I doubt my calipers are perfectly accurate or precise enough.
I've sent a message to the supplier I got the kit from, hoping they can help me out with a replacement axle. Other than that I don't know what to do.
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Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
Maybe spin the axle in a drill with some sandpaper?
I was old school - when old school wasn't cool !
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Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
I agree with RC10th. When the axles are machined perfectly (to the mean of the established tolerance), I believe the bearing should be a slip-fit. So, apparently the manufacturer has allowed one axle to get out that is slightly out of tolerance. A few minutes with a drill and some sandpaper (or a file) should do the trick. Just go easy and re-check the fit often 

Doug
Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
That might be a last resort. Although it would ruin the nice blue finish in the axle.
I've got messages in to the supplier, the distributor for AE in the UK (CML) and to AE themselves. Hopefully one of them will be able to help.
Alternatively, does anybody know a part nunber for those axles? Are they the same as the world's re-re? Or the B4 or something?
I've got messages in to the supplier, the distributor for AE in the UK (CML) and to AE themselves. Hopefully one of them will be able to help.
Alternatively, does anybody know a part nunber for those axles? Are they the same as the world's re-re? Or the B4 or something?
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Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
The ano will wear off eventually from the bearings riding on them anyway. I would just sand it and be done with it.
What wheels are you using?
What wheels are you using?
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Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
They are the same as the Worlds re-release, just anodized blue. The "silver" axles seem to be hard to come by, only seen a couple of them on eBay and that was some time ago. I had to resort to getting the conversion kit just to get some axles myself.
Strange that you got an axle out of tolerance but considering the source of manufacturing, quality control, etc. it happens
Strange that you got an axle out of tolerance but considering the source of manufacturing, quality control, etc. it happens

Bum on Direct Deposit
Re: New to me RC10 Team Car on the way
They are the B4 wheels #9588
CML Distribution have replied to ask where I got the kit from. Hopefully something might get sorted out.
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