I'm waiting on crucial parts from the west coast so did a little bit on the back end. Stealth tranny with #9601 top shaft, Avid ball bearings,my custom machined aluminum tranny spacers and top shaft plug. For now, might change, a Trinity machined 81T spur gear. I'm all out of brushless motors so will have to buy one. I'm thinking a 13.5 or maybe a 10.5.
That's a JConcepts Worlds re-re cf tranny brace, only thing I had to use right now. I'll probably get with GoMachV (Factory Works) and have a custom brace made.
NomadRacer wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2018 1:55 pm
I'll probably get with GoMachV (Factory Works) and have a custom brace made.
Pretty sure I packed one up for ya
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
The east coast snow storm has disrupted USPS and UPS deliveries to my rural area. There's about a 3 foot drift on the road in front of the house! Sucks big time as I have 9 packages due!
I need some info on the 10T front brace tubes, the ones that go from the sides of the tub to the front bulkhead slots. I have to make these as I have not been able to source them.
My question...Are the hole in the tube at the bulkhead end threaded for 4-40 or are they a pass through/clearance hole for the 4-40 screw?
Hopefully the mail will come today, the post office has been closed since Friday
I was looking for something to do at 0530 hrs this morning so I worked on the top slot in the motor plate for brushless power. I took about a half mm from the top, now the motor will pivot smoothly. Once again, using Lunsford titanium motor screws.
NomadRacer wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2018 8:36 am
I spent more than an hour, less than 12 to get this far. I was not able to do anything with the curve at the bottom but there's no tension on any screws!
it's a classic... I don't have one single of my rc10 where I haven't added washers between both parts to allow them to be bolted together
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Those are actually the wrong ones but the right ones are coming.
Those are 10t offset but for his build they were supposed to be buggy offset and I sent the wrong ones. I have lots of rear but fronts are long gone. I have the molds for all the different wheels we once offered but the cost of injecting them is crazy high
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
1st step is to drill and slot the tub for the trailing arm mounting plates. I'm going to leave the plates in their natural color for a nice contrast with the black re-re tub. I'm using mostly stainless steel button head (my favorite) hardware with Factory Works blue color load spreading washers.
Just thought I'd post up a couple of pics of this RC10 chassis plate which I dont have the parts for.Just wondering who makes it and what it is exactly.
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Yes its the HOUGE chassis that uses swingarms on the rear only either black plastic ones or aluminum ones.DON 8)
i found this setup in an old parts box at my lhs. i like hobby shops that have been around a LONG time, and they let you rumage through their storage room. you'll always find some neat old stuff.
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Well I'm in So Cal and the best one I know is Pegasus Hobbies in Montclair (for aftermarket old stock anyways). As far as factory Associated parts I just get them from tower or of course ebay. Andy Jacobson which we know as the Andy's originator...
I fully understand theory but what I'd like to know is how do they drive compared to the standard a-arm setups? The only trailing arm car I've ever driven is my JRX2 with it's 5 link suspension which is sort of an evolved trailing arm setup. There...
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I used to race an RC-10 with an Andys composite chassis and Andys trailing arms in the early 90's, similar to the A&L ones. The only thing I didn't like about them is that the camber changed alot through the range of motion.
I feel like noobe all over again. I started this build years ago when painting an extra body I had lying around. After sitting on it awhile I've finally decided to pull the trigger on the A&L chassis kit. I opted for the 4 hole front tower and...
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A big shout out to Frankentruck for the goodies. He sent a white and a black 3d printed rear bulkhead so I didn't have to chop up a decent vintage one.
The white wins me over for now despite the little bit of warping.
I've got this build going rather well now, still need a few more parts and work to get it rolling. Most of the Associated parts were sourced from eBay chop shop sellers.