RC10 DS steering wander - won't return to center, not trim issue

[tripedaler]

Hi all,

New here and just posted about a Goldpan I'm restoring. I'm also working on a DS and T2 ("found these in the basement after 20+ years" etc) for the kids and myself to run together. It's been fun!

I'm having trouble getting my DS to return to the same place with the steering. I installed a new servo (20kg one off of Amazon), but that didn't do it. Bell cranks all look fine. I'm guessing it has something to do with the servo saver - perhaps some corrosion in there. I plan to grease it up today and try to get it working. The issue occurs with or without the wheels on the ground. Anything else I might be missing? Cheers.

[juicedcoupe]

Lots of no-name and cheaper servos have poor centering.

But check for binding or tight spots with the servo disconnected. It's easy to over-tighten the bellcranks.

[Frankentruck]

Also check for looseness in the linkage connections. Ball studs not seated, ball cups loose on ball studs, etc. Bell cranjs fitting sloppy on pivot shafts.

[JosephS]

It's become more normal than not to simply run modern servos without a servo saver. I was having a similar issue on my t2 truck and simply removed the servo saver and the issue was fixed.

[jwscab]

I'd take apart the servo saver side and make sure it's all cleaned up and working properly. Sounds like its gunked up and not returning properly and the spring is too loose. When you rebuild it, crank the spring nut down.

[jwscab]

Forgot to mention the aluminum threads can be really hard if not clean so it feels like you are tight, but the threads are just jammed. Little bit of grease helps here.

[tripedaler]

It's become more normal than not to simply run modern servos without a servo saver. I was having a similar issue on my t2 truck and simply removed the servo saver and the issue was fixed.

Nice - I’ll try it. How did you get the upper arm connected t the servo shaft and the lower arm connected to t he bell crank fused? The V isn’t tight for me… Or if you just add washers to the nut ?

[JosephS]

It's become more normal than not to simply run modern servos without a servo saver. I was having a similar issue on my t2 truck and simply removed the servo saver and the issue was fixed.

Nice - I’ll try it. How did you get the upper arm connected t the servo shaft and the lower arm connected to t he bell crank fused? The V isn’t tight for me… Or if you just add washers to the nut ?

I'm not exactly sure what you are asking about, but here is a picture of the connection. You replace the servo saver with a plastic arm from the servo package. Does the picture help?

[juicedcoupe]

He is using the original servo saver, bellcrank arrangement.

When they get janky, I glue them together and put a HD servo saver on the servo itself.

[tripedaler]

Lots of no-name and cheaper servos have poor centering.

Yeah, I wondered that too. The issue was present with my old Futaba S3003, so I went with the generic Amazon 20kg one. The issue has been present with both, though I’ll admit the no-name isn’t anything special.

[tripedaler]

I tested the Amazon servo tonight and it does indeed have an issue returning to center. It gets very close to center then slowly adjust to center a second later. Frustrating. So I hooked up the old Futaba the seams to return the center. OK, but once I have it in the car, I still have the Issue of coming back to center reliably, even after cleaning out the servo saver and greasing everything up.

Not sure what to try next…

[juicedcoupe]

Is the servo properly centered when installing it? If you are using a lot of trim, that could be effecting it.

Also, Futaba 3003's are known for centering issues. The older S148 was much better.

I have several 3003's and they don't center fairly often. But I'm just bashing around, so it doesn't matter much.


But if you are after pinpoint steering, you might have to invest in some higher quality components. Quality servo, ball bearing bellcranks, and new ball studs and cups.

[BattleTrak]

Like others have mentioned.. it sounds like the servo saver assembly is loose & worn out or you have excessive friction in the steering assembly. Remove the steering servo rod from the servo and move the steering by hand.. there should be no play anywhere, and it should be super easy to move the wheels back and forth with minimal resistance.

[tripedaler]

Like others have mentioned.. it sounds like the servo saver assembly is loose & worn out or you have excessive friction in the steering assembly. Remove the steering servo rod from the servo and move the steering by hand.. there should be no play anywhere, and it should be super easy to move the wheels back and forth with minimal resistance.

I’ve wondered this too. Been moving it back and forth by hand. Resistance is not bad once I have the saver adjusted, but the amount of play is intense. The foam “bushings” on the ball studs are all disintegrating, so that could be part of the issue.

[tripedaler]

Is the servo properly centered when installing it? If you are using a lot of trim, that could be effecting it.

Also, Futaba 3003's are known for centering issues. The older S148 was much better.

I have several 3003's and they don't center fairly often. But I'm just bashing around, so it doesn't matter much.


But if you are after pinpoint steering, you might have to invest in some higher quality components. Quality servo, ball bearing bellcranks, and new ball studs and cups.

Thanks. I am running a LOT of trim at the moment, so I’ll try reinstalling the servo horn and recentering. Good tip.
On further note it looks like I am using an S148 - the s3003 is in the T2.

Thanks all for the help and putting up with the r newbie questions - I really enjoy the dynamics of this car, but the steering issue is killing the fun