Dadio's 3D Printing Stuff

[XLR8]

That looks fantastic, Dadio. Well done, sir!

I think Picasso would be envious.

[Dadio]

I chuffed to bits with how the pose came out , I was scared it would not balance on three legs , I even angled the tail a bit in the hope of balancing it and it just made it look more natural , dumb really as the tail is meant for balance in life so its obvious really it should work .

[Dadio]

Totally off topic , I printed 4 of these dragons for my grandchildren and a friend saw them and ordered 2 more , its a three core filament that makes the model change colour depending on the angle you look at it .

[silvertriple]

Totally off topic , I printed 4 of these dragons for my grandchildren and a friend saw them and ordered 2 more , its a three core filament that makes the model change colour depending on the angle you look at it .

20231015_100456.jpg

It maybe off topic, but it gives some idea... Could be great to play with some rim designs and this filament for a psychedelic build

[Dadio]

Totally off topic , I printed 4 of these dragons for my grandchildren and a friend saw them and ordered 2 more , its a three core filament that makes the model change colour depending on the angle you look at it .
20231015_100456.jpg

It maybe off topic, but it gives some idea... Could be great to play with some rim designs and this filament for a psychedelic build

I used a two colour filament for my Sand Rover hub caps , it could look cool for a body but you'd need to align it carefully if it took more than one part to print .

[Dadio]

Very basic 1mm and 0.5mm camber spacers for the Mini Mustang

[Frankentruck]

Have you ever experienced any printing issues with different nozzles? I tried a steel nozzle for wear resistance and I think it affected nozzle heating and layer bonding significantly. Adjusting nozzle temperature had minor improvement. After changing back to brass, my part strength is back to previous levels of goodness. Just curious if you've had any similar experience.

[Dadio]

Have you ever experienced any printing issues with different nozzles? I tried a steel nozzle for wear resistance and I think it affected nozzle heating and layer bonding significantly. Adjusting nozzle temperature had minor improvement. After changing back to brass, my part strength is back to previous levels of goodness. Just curious if you've had any similar experience.

When you change nozzle you need to retune the PID of the printer to get good results , brass has really good conduction compared to steel so the printer needs to give more current to the heater for a steel nozzle , usually there's an auto PID tuning function on Marlin firmware printers to use to recalibrate .
If you don't do it the nozzle temp can be really wrong and inconsistent causing bad layer adhesion .
Propper PID tuning gets the nozzle temp right and stops it overshooting to correct , the current is constantly being turned up and down to keep it in the sweet spot , if it's not calibrated well it will get too hot then too cold as it looks for the sweet spot , long-winded but I hope it helps .

[Dadio]

I recently bought some Polypropylene (PP) filament , the type of plastic used for Tuperware food storage containers . Reason being I was pretty sure it's what was used for PB Mini Mustang suspension components , I'm even more sure now .
I'd seen a few YouTube tutorials on printing with it and although it has superb layer bonding , toughness and ductility it's not without its problems to print , in short PP will stick perfectly to PP and nothing else !
There is a quick down and dirty solution though , most regular sticky tape is PP so you just tape up the bed and print on the tape , now I tried this but I used a smooth PEI bed plate that may have been the problem as the filament stuck very well to the tape but the tape peeled off the bed leaving a very warped part .
At this point I could have stripped the PEI coating off the bed so the tape was sticking to the spring steel plate directly but I only had two plates for my P1P and didn't want to ruin one so I ordered a cheap plate with fancy patterns on each side thinking I could strip the coating off the cheap plate , after ordering the new plate I found that Magigoo made a special glue just for PP so I ordered some of that too .
So my next attempt was with the new plate and just adding the Magigoo glue to it , the result is not perfect but way better , may be my own fault as Magigoo recommend a 20mm brim and I only used 5mm .
Below are pictures of the first badly warped part and the second usable but just slightly warped part .

As you can see the overall print quality of the second part is very clean and its just about the same feel as the original PB Mini Mustang arms for flex and strength , I tested the badly printed part and I can bend it double with no sign of breaking this stuff might be just right for Yokomo 834B front arms as well .

[silvertriple]

There is a quick down and dirty solution though , most regular sticky tape is PP so you just tape up the bed and print on the tape , now I tried this but I used a smooth PEI bed plate that may have been the problem as the filament stuck very well to the tape but the tape peeled off the bed leaving a very warped part .
At this point I could have stripped the PEI coating off the bed so the tape was sticking to the spring steel plate directly but I only had two plates for my P1P and didn't want to ruin one so I ordered a cheap plate with fancy patterns on each side thinking I could strip the coating off the cheap plate , after ordering the new plate I found that Magigoo made a special glue just for PP so I ordered some of that too .

I take note of this. Engineering plate is perfectly flat and should be the first choice for this...

[Dadio]

There is a quick down and dirty solution though , most regular sticky tape is PP so you just tape up the bed and print on the tape , now I tried this but I used a smooth PEI bed plate that may have been the problem as the filament stuck very well to the tape but the tape peeled off the bed leaving a very warped part .
At this point I could have stripped the PEI coating off the bed so the tape was sticking to the spring steel plate directly but I only had two plates for my P1P and didn't want to ruin one so I ordered a cheap plate with fancy patterns on each side thinking I could strip the coating off the cheap plate , after ordering the new plate I found that Magigoo made a special glue just for PP so I ordered some of that too .

I take note of this. Engineering plate is perfectly flat and should be the first choice for this...

It was the engineering plate I used , maybe a different brand of tape might work better maybe with a different adhesive ? a bit of trial and error might find the best tape , my feeling is that lowering the bed temp may help with tape as the adhesive may soften at higher temps ? , I was running 80°C ( recommended temp on filament spool was 60-80°C ) , ultimately the print permanently bonded to the tape and has to be cut out so it's far from ideal ! The Magigoo glue stick works , I just reprinted the arm with a 10mm brim and it's perfect , you can even still see the fake carbon fibre weave pattern from the cheap build plate is unaffected by the glue stick , the Magigoo glue aplicator is very (suspiciously) similar to the glue you get with the P1P .
Ultimately if your making structural parts the thickness is going to promote warping and I think the Magigoo is a better option .

[Frankentruck]

I really like Magigoo for nylon printing on my glass plate. There are different versions depending on filament type. Prior to that I used a GeckoTek surface.

[Dadio]

I really like Magigoo for nylon printing on my glass plate. There are different versions depending on filament type. Prior to that I used a GeckoTek surface.

For nylon I just use Elmer's Washable purple school glue stick , cheap as chips and works really well , I'm pretty impressed by the Magigoo PP though , looking at the application bottles I'm sure they supply Bambu Labs under licence .

[Dadio]

I'm so impressed with this PP filament , I've been doing some destructive testing on a couple of parts , firstly the first warped print I've been repeatedly bending it double then the other way , I've managed to mangle it but I can't break it then i though what about the suspension pin holes , this is the hardest thing to make strong with 3d printing , i put a pin in one hole and started pulling , it just stretched I had to twist it 180° before it stretched enough to snap and even then it wasn't at the layer lines , it just stretched thin enough to break , at the point of the pin holes the surface area of the layers is so small that it always breaks with other filaments , this stuff is mad .
I printed a Yokomo 834b front arm and it feels just like a real one in terms of flex and feel .
This is probably the most impressive filament I've used , I want to try a roll cage next as i think its the perfect material , also need to see what happens with supports , I'm thinking supports might be a nightmare to remove with layer bonding this strong .

[silvertriple]

I don't know if you already tried PC Blend, but as per some Andrew Cooke and James Knight comments I saw, this is also great material for technical parts...
I intend to try soon...