20 Years In A Box - Another RC10 Revival (Need help with upgrades)

[92RC10CE_Guy]

This is my first post and im asking questions that have probably been asked a million times. My apologies, im usually pretty good at finding my answers searching, but i cant seem to get it straight on a few things.
Heres the deal, i bought a 92RC10CE Kit brand new, with stealth transmission when i was 11 i think. Last time i ran it i was probably 14 or 15, im 34 now and just dug it out and decided i can finally afford to bring it back to life. I ordered a cheap brushless motor and esc off ebay already, will get more into the electronics later on, right now i just want to build a solid car and do the stuff i could never afford when i was a kid. After 20 years in the box, im just about as excited now as i was when i first put the kit together. Ive had other RC stuff in between, i had a T-MAXX 2.5 and a REVO 3.3 and bought my son a Rustler Xl5 a few years ago but he never really got into it. So I havent been totally out of touch, but all these different models to swap and upgrade different parts from has me a bit confused.

Heres what i want to do, any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

#1. Modern wheel/tire upgrade, spoked wheels would be nice, not a fan of the smoothies anymore. Need wheels for sure, pin slots in rears are stripped out in my stock wheels. So what do i need as far as front axle size, wheels and bearings? This also plays into the next question on axle size as well...i have no idea where to start.
#2. Need solid info on a rear CVD axle setup. (Always hated those dogbones) Running stock rear arms, need to know what hub carriers, bearings and axles to use. Ive read all the problems with the certain shafts being too short and some swap parts being discontinued. Does anyone know of an available set that works? I can handle modifications but advice on getting close would be helpful, what works, what doesnt work.
#3. I'm going to upgrade to the B4/T4 slipper and will be putting a full set of bearings in the trans/whole car (was a bushing kit). I think i have the whole top shaft and slipper setup tracked down on ebay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222554236430 Let me know if that works. On that same note, do they make a steel Spur Gear for that setup? Going brushless and eventually lipo...maybe, want to take out the weak links.
#4. I also need a decent steering servo, not sure the 25 year old futaba is still gonna work, but i dont know what i need for specs, dont want to get a slow one or too weak or too fast. Any recommendations?

Those are my main questions, i want to start ordering parts and get into the rebuild asap before i lose interest again or another project pops up. I will probably take pics and make a post about the revival build.

Thanks for any input.

Just remembered a funny thing i did once with this thing, me and my brother were into model rockets at the same time i had this running as a kid. We mounted 4 D rocket engines to the back of it in a block of balsa mounted to the wing tubes, rigged a switch to the old manual speed control to activate at full trottle and ignite the engines and sent it off a huge jump with em lit, it backflipped a couple times and landed it and drove around the yard making a huge smoke show, when the thrust was done i stopped it right in front of us, but we had forgotten about the delayed ejection charges and all 4 engines went flying out the back, luckily not pointed at us, it was a good time. Just thought it would share. Damn i wish we had video cameras in our pockets back then! Im sure theres a million crazy RC stories out there, is there a thread for that?

Thanks for reading this rediculously long post!

[jwscab]

for modern wheels, that fit directly on the 1/4" axles you currently have, look for jcracing from the UK, they sell direct fit 5 spoked wheels that will mount 2.2" tires available all over. http://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=18

edit****they also offer the same style wheel with 3/16" axle for b2/b3, so that would also work with the stuff i mention below**
you can find 1/4" mip or associated cvds sets, those will be the older ones that fit better than the re-release since the dogbone is slightly short. Ebay would be your best bet. However, you can convert to the new re-release parts, be mindful of shimming and shock limiters and they will probably work fine. Or replace the bone with a slightly longer bone from the b44.2(might be discontinued now).
rear conversion shows the parts you need, mostly bearings and hubs.
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6802-ASC6802-rc10_rear_wheel_conversion/
if you convert to 3/16" axles the jc wheels above won't work, but re-release worlds wheels do(though just disc wheels).

that link for the slipper looks OK, at some point the B/t 4.x switched to metric bearings in the transmission, so double check that the top shaft will fit the imperial(std) bearings. No need for steel gears, the plastic spurs are plenty strong enough if you stay with a sane brushless system and 2s packs.

savox, futaba, turnigy lots of others offer good servos, some cheaper than others. I have a couple of turnigy trackstar servos that seem to be working well, though others have said they have seen failures. savox is a reputable brand, and you cannot go wrong with futaba. this one is tricky, many opinions and many preferences, there are full threads here on this forum, i'd look into them.

[XLR8]

Welcome to the forums.

+ on the spur. I never like to run metal on metal. Better off staying with a plastic spur.
The B44.2 CVA bone is discontinued and I've yet to find any on the secondary market so it's probably best to switch to 3/16" axles (unless you don't like the wheels) or just continue to run the dog bones. There is nothing wrong with dog bones. I still have them in some of my runners.

[Ucsdmutt]

We need pictures!

[92RC10CE_Guy]

Thanks for the input!
Pictures coming for sure.
I'll probably just continue this thread with the rebuild progress.

[92RC10CE_Guy]

They made a good box, it has survived as a spare parts and tools container all these years.

Nose plate is pretty shredded but the pan isnt as bad as i thought.

Bearing missing.....probably couldnt afford the 3rd one...haha!

Heres some scary....remnants of battery packs i used to build out of cordless tool batteries, place my dad worked used to toss them, i would test and find a bad cell and take it out, some of them were pretty sweet. I can believe i never burned the house down...

[XLR8]

Well, it's a start. Should clean-up pretty nice. Missing nose tubes = bent nose plates. Fortunately, replacements for both are readily available.

[92RC10CE_Guy]

Yep, that nose plate has seen concrete a few times, on the edges its so chewed that its almost paper thin, I will definitely replace it, for cosmetic reasons if nothing else. Did they ever make a plastic bumper for these?

Amazingly only 1 shock is empty and i have the rebuild kit, just need to make sure the shafts arent too bad.
The slop on the trans top shaft is horrible, hub carrier bushings are so smoked that the wheels flop around like they arent even there and the diff feels pretty gritty. Otherwise it just needs a cleanup, new set of bearings and a radio.
I hope to get started on this in the next couple weeks.

[NomadRacer]

Yes, there's lots of bumpers for the RC10. Search eBay or you can get some real nice ones from Shapeways.

Here's a couple for example...

https://www.shapeways.com/product/9MU7HA68Z/rc10-classic-front-bumper?optionId=21068436

https://www.shapeways.com/product/8CP6ZDBA3/rc10-bumper?optionId=57617402&li=marketplace

[92RC10CE_Guy]

Cool thanks, that first one is perfect, added to my list, it may be just enough to cover up the damage on this one. I dont think i ever ran it without the nose braces, so the plate is probably straight.

[NomadRacer]

You can find new nose brace tubes, silver and black. I just got some a couple of weeks ago.

[XLR8]

In the photo second from the bottom, it looks like your front shocks are leaning back quite a bit which suggest a loose or bent plate. However, it could just be distortion in the photo. Anyway, you'll know when you install the new tubes; they will appear to be too long. If the plate is bent, they're pretty easy to correct using a bench vise and some patience. I've had to straighten a few before.

Anyway, good luck with your restoration project. I'm a bit jealous. Some folks go bowling, others work cross word puzzles but I really like taking an old barn-find apart, cleaning each part and rebuilding it to nearly new condition. It's therapy on a cold winter's day.