The first one I made 1986-87 for indoor is a killer short WB on tricky tracks the other one Long WB I made 1987-88 is killer outdoors
I'm on my way to get a milling machine.........a copy or so of the old alu-part might be the solution.
Made a little progress on one of the chassis. Unknown chassis, wider than the Duratrax XL that I have, no cutouts and they made their own servo mount and battery mount holes. Same length as stock outlaw within a few mm, likely more due to extra kickup but the upper chassis had to be shortened ever so slightly.
Question: do I dye the towers black or leave them natural?
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
If I of any dye it will be all the g10. It would give it more of a kyosho frp look. I'm really up in the air about it. I think I will switch over to the other buggy for a bit and think about it
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Very nice looking. Ive been wondering if any ultima based upper plate will work with minor mods with any ultima based bottom plate? So, say a 1st gen ultima top plate with pro ultima bottom plate? I just got a big heap of rampage, or outrage, or something, and hoping to turn them into an ultima of sorts.
rccars4sal wrote:Very nice looking. Ive been wondering if any ultima based upper plate will work with minor mods with any ultima based bottom plate? So, say a 1st gen ultima top plate with pro ultima bottom plate? I just got a big heap of rampage, or outrage, or something, and hoping to turn them into an ultima of sorts.
The standard chassis and the XL I believe are the only two lengths. The outlaw appears to be XL length. Not sure if there were different Kelron chassis lengths. I have the original and turbo ultima upper deck and they were too short for this one. I copied the Kelron upper from a II and shortened it about 1/8" due to the added kickup
Ultima series are fun to mix and match, lots of compatibility.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
I really dig the white natural finish on your parts. They work very well with the black chassis. After going through my pile rampage, I think its better as a rampage runner, and will save the 2wd build for another day.
The kelron was the same length as the ProXL. You can use a original Ultima top deck or a JG on a Pro chassis, but not a ProXL. The standoff holes will need to be drilled though as they are not the same.
Was the duratrax chassis for the xl exactly the same dimensions as a stock xl? I have a duratrax and the kickup and length are the same as this chassis, but it is larger all around the perimeter. The kickup on both chassis is more than the bulkhead would like, and that's why on the custom upper deck I had to change the front mounting slightly. I think if it had less take like a Kelron chassis the upper deck would have bolted right up
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Well I got a little further. Found enough gold shock bits to get the outlaw standing in its own, however they are rough and will need some attention. May try to anno them. I started assembling the "best" of the lot with an eBay special $30 duratrax chassis and lots of saved up new bits like the adjustable tie rod set. I am loving the way the optima body fits so I will be looking for one instead of an Ultima body. Tires and wheels were stuff I had, I'd like to find something in a matching rear proline dish wheel and get rid of those you-g. Still contemplating dying the towers. I need more gold shocks and hardware for the fronts so it's going to the side until I can free up some cash.
Off to work on the oval car some more. Trying to decide on a front suspension- I am not a fan of laying the shock down using the upper camber hole at the hub but that's how kyosho liked to do it. Upright would be pretty tall. Hmmmm
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Have a question which may be of help to the thread starter, though apologies if its a hijack
The idler gear on the outside of the gearbox is meant to have two bearings and a spacer between the bearings
Is there any thing in particular that makes a good substitute for the spacer?
The original called for that spacer, one of my trannies had it- see pic. I remembered them being a white color but this one was black. The aftermarket bearing sets use a 4x8fl bearing on each side and loose the washer that goes on the inside.
The spacer is exactly the same dimension as a 4x8 bearing, so I personally would substitute it with another bearing
Attachments
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
This is a replica I am doing using all vintage parts....it's replicating an Ultima the Diamond 💎 One raced in the 80's....the chassis was a beat up pile I restored, along with the TrackMaster tranny...it will be a slow process, but here's the start...
Last post
This is a replica I am doing using all vintage parts....it's replicating an Ultima the Diamond 💎 One raced in the 80's....the chassis was a beat up pile I restored, along with the TrackMaster tranny...it will be a slow process, but here's the start...
Been at this one for a while now and finally about to wrap it up. All parts are scaled 1/2 from the 12e making it a 1/24 car. Fits slot bodies but I'm struggling to find a nice early 80s stock car for it. I made a few concessions along the way but...
First off, I’m new at this. I’m not a pro. I’m learning as I go
I have two printers. A Malyan M200 and a currently unfinished Creality CR-10s. The Malyan is printing really well right now so I’m in no hurry to finish up the Creality. The CR-10s...
Last post
That works perfectly !! Now you just have to build an adorably small vacuum as well :lol:
I miss my old stash of cars. I cant remember if most of them went to Switzerland or Australia. This is the old hobby room....
Last post
Getting closer. It’s almost presentable. The rubber base molding was remnant from a local carpet company and the crown molding was found in the garage rafters so it was free :P Still trying to decide if I wrap it with a trim line around the center,...
Hey guys! For those of you not on Facebook, I figured I should fill you in. We put in an offer on a place and it was accepted so we are packing up and headed to Idaho. Factory Works will be up and down for a while as we try to get our house sold...
Last post
Don't Coors full flavor across state lines....you'll get busted!
Been tooling away and its getting close! Thanks Johnny for a couple parts I have been waiting on. The shock towers are not 100% yet, I need to shorten the front a tad and change the rear up for aesthetics. They will also be black G10 on the finished...
Last post
I use a pin router (there is a thread I started here if you search pin router) to make the final. The front for example I double side taped an original tower, routered one side, and refitted the tower to cut the second half. On the rear, I made half...