I saw those in fact when i saw them I thought "Huh interesting there is a company called Moor's Ideal products that was making parts for the 4-10" I never even questioned what MIP stood for.
For the update: I'm revising the case design. The bearings were too tight of a fit (they went in but needed a little persuasion.) and a few other fits needed attention. Right now I'm working on a different mounting set up so that one does not have to have a special shock tower r have to modify any thing. By Thursday I'll put in an order at shapewayes for another prototype and go from there.
Good call on the shock tower, they were pretty weak with the cutout!
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
So practically nothing that i said I'd do I did. Didn't get it out by last Thursday. Got it out to day though. Had to allow for a cut out in the front tower albeit a small one. Did find what I think will be a stiffer way to mount. Adjusted the clearances for bearings and shafts. Anyway some progress and I'm certain there will be more prototypes to come. It will be tough to fit a buggy body too.
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
wish the owner of mip was on this site, i bet if he saw u doing this might put a fire under his ass to put out a rere mip kit. which i really think he should do now with 2 reissues rc10's out now, and a rc10t on the way???
if you could find a work around for having nose tubes, making it fit becomes a much easier task.
why not get a front shock tower with the top brace and still trim it at the bottom.
If your 3d printing parts, why not make the case and front bulkheads 1 piece?
b44 parts look like they might fit for the front but your probably designing your own.
I like that top brace idea.
hugger19 wrote:wish the owner of mip was on this site, i bet if he saw u doing this might put a fire under his ass to put out a rere mip kit. which i really think he should do now with 2 reissues rc10's out now, and a rc10t on the way???
Kind of what I was thinking too. I have a lot more appreciation for his design now that I'm trying to design it too.
Hey Guys, I was hoping to get some input on some issues I have with the front steering block, castor block and B4 CVD I'm trying to mash together. The b4 CVD is just too short in any of the 3 positions I am trying it in. I would prefer to use the Middle position (position 2 as I'm calling it). I've drawn it as a 5deg. castor block. The steering arm is using 3/8" x 1/4" Flanged bearings.
Does any body now the lengths of the different CVDs available.
Below I have listed all the positions. Turning left, Right, and Neutral in positions 1,2 and 3. Position 3 is the most inboard position. And the B4 CVD
Well really I asked because I don't think it's a good idea to use trailing knuckles. Every 4wd I can think of used inline steering knuckles and I got to think there's a good reason for that. Admittedly I don't know exactly what that reason is but my guess is that the uneven arc trailing knuckles would pull the CVD/dogbone through could cause binding.
Trailing on a 4wd would create a lot of odd length issues as the travel and steering are articulated. If you look at the 4-10 it looks like a trailing setup but the pivot points are inline with the axle
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
Further more , the centerline of rotation of the CVD/universal and c hub should be in line. This will prevent the doggone end from telescoping while the car turns. It can telescope a little when articulating the suspension but not during the hub rotation. You might be best served adapting b44 or yokomo parts for the hub/spindle.
I will soon (hopefully) get started working on a completely 3D printed rc10. But before I start that I would like to see everyone's 3d printed parts. From a shock cap to an entire vehicle I want to see it all!
Lets see what you got!
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I think I will do it a little differently than is expected. I have decided to make my own aluminum chassis and do a mid motor car. I will use a lot of parts from a regular rc10 but with a custom chassis. But! That’s not to say that in the future I...
Well, I'm not trying to sell anything at this point so I hope the moderators understand and don't delete this post. I'm just curious as to what thoughts on the matter some people may have because I have access to the required software and equipment...
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Cool…
It’s only a matter of time before there are affordable high resolution 3d printers for home use.
I’m looking at upgrading our current Objet – Eden 260V to a Connex 350. This will give me the ability to make high resolution ABS (like) parts…...
I recently had 2 Kyosho OT-85 center gears (idlers) printed by Shapeways.
The gears were printed MJF PA12. Vapor smoothing or any smoothing was not an option.
The gear faces are not particularly well finished. Probably nature of the beast.
I really...
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Thanks Doug
It appears that to find any Google reference to the gear and find their site you must add acetal in the search terms.
If you have parts you would like to see made for any model or manufacturer this is the place to ask.
Things like suspension arms are out of the question, the parts are too weak and flexible if made to the same design using ABS plastic. If the part...
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I will just leave this here for the Losi JRX2 JRXT fans. Don't think you will find a better orange match.
Only on eBay right now and just these 3 sets for while. Have other large project starting for printing.
Intro & Background
Hello everyone - I'm new here (as you can probably tell) so forgive me if I commit any infractions to unspoken rules. I read the forum rules and I think I've got everything down correctly.
One of the issues with reproduction bodies, as we all know, is that many of them are produced by making a mold of an original, which in the end produces a smaller copy of the original. Has anyone considered making a body mold using 3d printing? As...
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I don't know exactly what the pros use, but here's my materials experience in vacuum forming...
Thermo/vacuum forming requires a rigid, tough material with a low coefficient of thermal expansion, as well as the ability to withstand cyclical 400F+...