Anyways, I'd like to use 1/4" rear axles with RC10T bearings in the WOIN rear hubs and Kline A-arms. My question is, has anyone done this and found dogbones that will work?
Why do I want to do this you ask? Freak of nature, that's why...
I blended the 1/4" outer cva stub axle with a B4 cva shaft on my ten4 short arm car. The only way to get the 1/4" axle is in the classic cva kit so it's not the cheapest route
It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
What rear wheels are you planning on running (I assume you are attempting to keep it 'legal')? The WOIN formula was to run modern B4 (or now B5) wheels on the rear, but neither of those are designed to use the 1/4" old axles.
Not trying to poopoo the idea, just dont want you to go all the way down that road and have to rethink wheels.
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
My thought on this project is that this car is mid morph from an oldschool racer to current technology. As if my old Andys racer from the 90's and my current WOIN car had a baby!
Again, just wanted to do something different and "weird".
JK Racing wrote:What rear wheels are you planning on running (I assume you are attempting to keep it 'legal')? The WOIN formula was to run modern B4 (or now B5) wheels on the rear, but neither of those are designed to use the 1/4" old axles.
Not trying to poopoo the idea, just dont want you to go all the way down that road and have to rethink wheels.
Wasn't there a thread a while back that listed all or most of the available cva shafts and their lengths? I could use a list like that too for some projects I have in mind...
no, there are only bits and pieces through different threads. I would love to get a driveshaft database set up, but it's a pretty monumental task. also, there has to be a standard measurement technique. For whatever reason, most are measured end to end when the pin to pin in the critical length, as well as ball diameter. even the manufacturers are all over the place.
the other problem is guys will only have certain models/brands, and you have to rely on everyone measuring to do an accurate job. Not always the easiest. especially for the oddball brands.
I couldn't find any measurements when I was building my OIN car - so I made my own to the exact specs that I needed and had them 3d printed out of stainless! So far they are working fine. The car has been 69mph with them! lol
Nice work, glad to hear they're holding up. I would be more concerned about them holding up to a high traction off road car than on a top speed car though.
mk-Zero wrote:Nice work, glad to hear they're holding up. I would be more concerned about them holding up to a high traction off road car than on a top speed car though.
I did do some pretty good launches on them...granted only a few but I was surprised for sure! lol.
I'm pretty sure they will not hold up though. The walls are pretty thin on the cva end and stock ones seem to be hardened. I tried to drill one once and it was obviously very hard material. A cvd on the other hand would probably print well and stand up to abuse fine...
I know some of this is speculative and also the current virus has prob changed plans but wanted to know what people thought was the roadmap for the 6.2....thinking of getting one but if its basically being replaced soon I will hold off....
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As mentioned above the B6.2 and B6.2D came out in February 2020.
With racing (and the data gathered from competitive racing) basically halted since April and the future state of the economy unclear I do not see another RC10 release for quite...
I have the idea to fit B4-rims to the original RC10. The B4 rear-rims have 8mm less off-set. So why not make the a-arms 8mm longer? If I use the B4-CVD´s, it couldt fit perfectly, or not?
I made new a-arms with the original RC10-style, but 8mm...
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Jason, are those T2 inner blocks (like the #7363) at the rear?
yup. i still have to get all of the parts i need to mock this up. hopefully, sooner than later.
So just a quick FYI, my backorder for traxxas 2.0 tires from tower got canceled and they are now an invalid part number.....so we lost another possible 2.0 tire solution.
so as far as what is still available, it looks like tamiya for off road, and...
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Oh Yes! I love that Losi 2.0 Step Pin tire in silver, great all round use! I still use them, even now stretched on a B4 wheels. They are mounted on Yokomo 2.0 wheels on my OBSO RC10 now as well. Love them! 8)
My RC10 has been running B4 front axles for some time now, but the nylock nuts just can't grab well due to the shortness of the threads. Does anyone make longer front axles for the B4? Or shorter locking nuts?
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Never had a problem with the front ever backing off, seems weird..I just use the rpm mini nuts or the ae nuts that are very similar,,,
I just got back into the hobby 6 months ago and picked up a nice graphite chassis car with stealth for $39. I have noticed that as stock the car is extremely light on the front end. So as I built it up, I wanted to shift weight towards the front. I...
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I assume I could build a buggy out of a one-piece 10T graphite chassis with the Klein arms? 10T's longer than 10s?
I have been collecting a few parts and scored an old JR. T from a guy a the local track to kick start all of this and now it is down to deciding what to use to built this mutt. I have a used carbon chassis coming in the mail and enough parts to put...