OK, where can I buy Protech II body? I tried to contact bluegroove but got no reply so are there any other place to try? I'm still waiting for the front arm mounts so in the meanwhile assembled the rear end. The white plastics are whiter than before H2O2 bath but not as white as the other car which has seen no sunlight. I used 3% mixture and heated it for a while and had them in the jar for 3 days afterwards. But these will do.
I think after this and the World's car I'm done with restoring these. I found another RC10 Graphite with stealth transmission so I will build that with modern parts, inspired by tOnio's rere build.
I knew I had the box and manual somewhere and finally found them today. These have been in my parents house for over 25 years. Sadly my original car is gone but this one is a good replacement.
bluewormx wrote: ↑Sat Feb 03, 2018 1:23 pm
Another source of protech 2 body is Penguin.
Search ebay for seller haskins2004.
Thanks again! I ordered Protech II for this, Viper for the Team car and Turbo Mirage for my World's car. Saved a lot on shipping costs as he had them all.
I finally got all the chassis parts for this and now it's basically a roller with no body on. But the front end still seems to be really loose. Compared to my World's car it feels like total crap. I have new bulkheads and caster blocks as they had oval pin holes but I think I still need new front arms. And I haven't seen those for sale in a long time. Anyone wanting to sell me a pair?
I also found some vintage Lunchford turnbuckles from my stash but missing rear ones and the short steering one. Do you know if they can be bought separately?
for those lunsfords yes. Just see what length you need as Lunsford still had this style locked away. and started selling again when the rere's came out. But just need to email them.
Hey Tomi, also check your hinge pins. The plastics typically don't wear so, often times, I've found that the suspension will tighten up significantly with a new set of pins. Your front arms are probably okay.
Also, as side note, as an American I'll admit to being biased but I've always thought that Graphite boxart is totally gorgeous - the best AE ever produced.
I had one pair of white arms I was saving for the Graphite Team car but I tried them anyway. Now everything is as tight as with the World's car. I The pin holes seems to be oval shaped on the old arms so maybe they go bad after all. Now I still need a set of white arms for the other car but as that will be more of a driver I may ahve to settle for black arms. They are still availabe so I don't have to worry about braking them.
And then mandatory pictures with Ultrahive's body on. It sits lower on this car than the gold pan and really looks much better, even with 2.2" wheels.
Thanks! I'm still amazed by the body, it's just so cool.
Front end seems to be quite low even without any weight. I measured the shocks and Graphite has 2.55" and World's car has 2.75" from link to link. There are no limiters inside so do I have too short front shocks? They are the same length as short arm cars.
I figured the only way to get a coffin chassis RC10 Graphite is to have a replica chassis made. Since I have an extra later model RC10 Graphite in nice condition, it seems like a good option for the making a coffin chassis style buggy.
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I decided which one gets the skeleton chassis and 48p Thorp 6 gear setup.
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Could you guys tell me the differences between a regular RC10 Graphite and a RC10 Graphite Team car besides the obvious...teflon shocks and stealth tranny? thanks in advance!
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Thanks guys I found exactly what I needed thanks to you guys. I appreciate it.
I never had one of these versions when I was younger, I went right from the standard 6036 chassis with the AE logo to the B2--but this is what was around Upstate New York when we did get these cars in the last month or two before the b2 was...
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After:
I intended for it to be a...
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