RCveteran, I think I can answer some of your questions.
1) To polish aluminum, you have to first remove any anodizing, as anodizing is a very tough, hard coating and it won't be easy to remove. The scratches on your chassis are well past the anodizing coating and into the raw aluminum, unfortunately. That would take a LOT of effort to polish out. I'd probably look for a new chassis rather than try to restore that one...or keep it as-is, it's kinda cool to restore a car and let it keep some of its battle scars.
I remove anodizing by spraying the parts with Easy-Off Heavy Duty oven cleaner (yellow cap), letting them sit a couple minutes, and brushing off with a toothbrush. Wash and rinse well after all the ano is removed. Then begins the polishing, which is wet-sanding in increasingly finer grits of sandpaper. What you start with depends on how smooth the surface is to begin with; I start with 800 if it's smooth, or 400 if you have fine scratches to remove. What you end with depends on how glossy a surface you want; if you like a matte finish, stop at 800. If you want a silky finish, 1000 or 1500. If you want glossy shine, use polishing compound and a rotary tool like a Dremel after you've finished wet-sanding with 1500-grit. Don't skip too much between grits, be sure to do it in order: 400-600-800-1000-1500-polishing compound. If you take shortcuts, your results will suffer. I documented this process recently with my current Lucas Agitator resto project:
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=35595&start=16
2. Trinity made gold tie-rods and camber links for Kyosho cars; I have used them on my Zebra Optima and OptiMutt cars (check the links in my sig for more details). I believe the same Trinity hop-ups may have fit the Ultima.
3. Those Bridgestone tires do indeed look original. Those wheels look like the aftermarket alloy repros that Pargu makes. His web store is here:
http://www.pargustore.com/alloy-parts/kyosho/ultima.html
His product is very good quality; his English, not so much (he's Korean I believe).