RC10 - A Stamp Rebuild - Chipped Idler Gear

[GreenBar0n]

Ah, I've seen that before -- it eliminates all droop in the suspension which can be bad but probably not a big deal if the car ran on a dead flat surface. Over a rougher surface however, the tires would literally skip over the surface stressing the drive train and making the car really hard to drive. Droop is necessary to allow the tires to maintain contact with the surface.

It's also possible the tooth chipped because the nylon has become dry and brittle. Do you know about re-hydrating old nylon parts? Just clean them with warm water and dish soap to remove all traces of grease and oil, then rinse to remove the soap residue and drop the parts into a jar of water for a few days. This will allow the nylon to absorb water making the parts soft and pliable.

This RC10 looks like it was barely run, that's what made me think the axle stubs stopping and starting abruptly as they snagged, was what was responsible for the idler gear damage. The rest of this thing is pristine, there's only slight yellowing on the gear case, and top of the arms, but nothing is brittle so far.

I'll have to try the water trick, thanks for that!

[GreenBar0n]

Have nearly all of the parts to get this one going again.


Got the ASC6614 black delrin gears from another member here, on ebay, appreciate these still being available, at any price.


Already had the Trinity battery pack, found this motor to go with it.


Need a particular ESC, and a bearing kit. Also thinking about getting the Dhawk 6-gear bearing kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/196184897363

[radioactivity]

The D-Hawk bearing adapter is not really necessary IMHO.

"Should I put bearings in this kit, or are there any other improvements I could make in the gear box while it's open?"

Bearings is yes.
The best investment in a 6 gear transmission is taking the burrs off the teeth of all the metal gears in the trans. All 4 metal gears.
The burrs left from manufacturing the gears can chew up those pretty new idlers.
Drag your fingernail across the gear faces and at the ends of the face and there will be a burr on both ends ( file sand polish ).
There is also a lot of excessive side to side play in the idlers and outdrives that can be dealt with.
Shims for the idlers and trimming the ends of the 6609 drive gear pivot about .010" - .015".
Check end play on the 6609 with calipers before trimming.
It takes time but 6 gears can be made to run like a Swiss watch.

Some more reading is here. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=44362


Chuck

[GreenBar0n]

The D-Hawk bearing adapter is not really necessary IMHO.

"Should I put bearings in this kit, or are there any other improvements I could make in the gear box while it's open?"

Bearings is yes.
The best investment in a 6 gear transmission is taking the burrs off the teeth of all the metal gears in the trans. All 4 metal gears.
The burrs left from manufacturing the gears can chew up those pretty new idlers.
Drag your fingernail across the gear faces and at the ends of the face and there will be a burr on both ends ( file sand polish ).
There is also a lot of excessive side to side play in the idlers and outdrives that can be dealt with.
Shims for the idlers and trimming the ends of the 6609 drive gear pivot about .010" - .015".
Check end play on the 6609 with calipers before trimming.
It takes time but 6 gears can be made to run like a Swiss watch.

Some more reading is here. https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=44362


Chuck

Much appreciation, will go over the metal gears tonight, and make sure I've read that all correctly, bookmarked the 6-gear link too. I ordered the Fast Eddy Classic set, and will not get the Dhawk kit. Thanks!

[jcwrks]

Here is Jay Halsey's Tranny Tips in pdf. Click the pop out icon on the upper right to go full screen.

[GreenBar0n]

Here is Jay Halsey's Tranny Tips in pdf. Click the pop out icon on the upper right to go full screen.

that is serious business! I had no idea what all went in to the 6-gears to make them race ready. Looking forward to taking my time and performing some of these recommended steps. Drilling the diff ring is out of my range for this project, but really appreciate seeing what was involved in the pinnacle of the 6-gear development. Thanks for that!

Bearings should be here tomorrow, looking forward to getting back to this.

[GreenBar0n]

Got the bearing kit, and was going to get started on the rebuild.

Looking at the white plastics, I have yellowing in some places more than others.


I would like these to be shiny and fresh again.


But I hear about the hydrogen peroxide process making the plastic brittle or deformed.

In many of my past projects, I never learn to leave well enough alone, I inevitably found one spot to fixate on, then in an attempt to fix that one tiny little spot, I ruin the project, or make it worse somehow.

Should I leave this yellowing alone and be happy with what I have here? Or, Is there a way to do this that is certain not to ruin the original parts?

[JosephS]

Got the bearing kit, and was going to get started on the rebuild.

Looking at the white plastics, I have yellowing in some places more than others.


I would like these to be shiny and fresh again.


But I hear about the hydrogen peroxide process making the plastic brittle or deformed.

In many of my past projects, I never learn to leave well enough alone, I inevitably found one spot to fixate on, then in an attempt to fix that one tiny little spot, I ruin the project, or make it worse somehow.

Should I leave this yellowing alone and be happy with what I have here? Or, Is there a way to do this that is certain not to ruin the original parts?

I personally have not had a problem with using 3% peroxide, this regular stuff for cuts. I would leave it in a glass jar for a day or two in the sun. None of the parts got brittle or chalky, I do however fully soak the parts in water first so that if there is any material to wick into the nylon it would be water and not peroxide.

I think many people here have done peroxide without negative results. I’ve only a few cars.

[XLR8]

...

In many of my past projects, I never learn to leave well enough alone, I inevitably found one spot to fixate on, then in an attempt to fix that one tiny little spot, I ruin the project, or make it worse somehow.
...

Oh wow, that sounds like me.

I think it's common to find some variation in the color of the nylon parts. Not all parts were molded at the same time, from the same nylon batch, or most likely, even from the same equipment so the color can vary somewhat.

Honestly, the parts are 35+ years old so I don't think we should expect them to look like they were molded yesterday.

I would add that the peroxide treatment isn't permanent. Treated parts will begin to yellow again in a few years.

[GreenBar0n]

I personally have not had a problem with using 3% peroxide, this regular stuff for cuts. I would leave it in a glass jar for a day or two in the sun. None of the parts got brittle or chalky, I do however fully soak the parts in water first so that if there is any material to wick into the nylon it would be water and not peroxide.

I think many people here have done peroxide without negative results. I’ve only a few cars.

How do you tell the percentage of peroxide you're using, such as 3%? I should use straight peroxide, with no water? Thanks!

Oh wow, that sounds like me.

I think it's common to find some variation in the color of the nylon parts. Not all parts were molded at the same time, from the same nylon batch, or most likely, even from the same equipment so the color can vary somewhat.

Honestly, the parts are 35+ years old so I don't think we should expect them to look like they were molded yesterday.

I would add that the peroxide treatment isn't permanent. Treated parts will begin to yellow again in a few years.

The original owner left this in the sun, on one side only it looks like, as only one half of the gear case is yellowed, the arms too on that side.

Reminds me of when I bought a cheap keyboard cover to keep the dust off.


But it's mesh and not UV resistant, and the sun turned all the keys yellow right through it; the camera flash washes out the yellow, but it's got a fluorescent yellow glow to it now, like a smokers teeth.

[JosephS]

I personally have not had a problem with using 3% peroxide, this regular stuff for cuts. I would leave it in a glass jar for a day or two in the sun. None of the parts got brittle or chalky, I do however fully soak the parts in water first so that if there is any material to wick into the nylon it would be water and not peroxide.

I think many people here have done peroxide without negative results. I’ve only a few cars.

How do you tell the percentage of peroxide you're using, such as 3%? I should use straight peroxide, with no water? Thanks!

Oh wow, that sounds like me.

I think it's common to find some variation in the color of the nylon parts. Not all parts were molded at the same time, from the same nylon batch, or most likely, even from the same equipment so the color can vary somewhat.

Honestly, the parts are 35+ years old so I don't think we should expect them to look like they were molded yesterday.

I would add that the peroxide treatment isn't permanent. Treated parts will begin to yellow again in a few years.

The original owner left this in the sun, on one side only it looks like, as only one half of the gear case is yellowed, the arms too on that side.

Reminds me of when I bought a cheap keyboard cover to keep the dust off.


But it's mesh and not UV resistant, and the sun turned all the keys yellow right through it; the camera flash washes out the yellow, but it's got a fluorescent yellow glow to it now, like a smokers teeth.

The bottle you have is likely a 3-4% solution and is the right stuff. Anything that can be used on skin is a lower percentage. Higher percentages are what are used for food service and hair dye.

[TRX-1-3]

The peroxide method is tried and true. If it hasn't been mentioned, just make sure to rinse/soak the parts after really well. Might want to pay particular attention to blind holes, etc. When going into the peroxide bath, you can drive the air bubbles out with a toothpick or similar. Same with the rinse bath.

[XLR8]

The peroxide method is tried and true. If it hasn't been mentioned, just make sure to rinse/soak the parts after really well. Might want to pay particular attention to blind holes, etc. When going into the peroxide bath, you can drive the air bubbles out with a toothpick or similar. Same with the rinse bath.

OH, thanks for mentioning that.
Nylon is hygroscopic so it's very important to rinse and soak the parts to remove all traces of peroxide.

Peroxide will ruin anno, even in very low concentrations - please don't ask how I know.

[jcwrks]

Actually it is recommended you boil the parts after they completed a peroxide bath.

[GreenBar0n]

This is great! I really appreciate all of your input, thanks guys!

I can't afford to do this wrong and ruin the original parts, and hearing all of your success stories, and best practices, makes me feel more comfortable about doing this.

First, I soaked all of the white plastics in water, it has been about 10 hours so far.


Should I remove all of the ball studs, e-clips, and hinge pins, or can I soak this all in peroxide like it is?

Thanks again!