RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Bumping the inquiry, in case anyone is able to answer and hasn't seen the question. Or, is someone has just a B44 I could ask for some specific chassis measurements.

Wow, that is very detailed painting. Well done.

I think you did a good job! I've used airbrushes for various hobbies over the years and while there is a learning curve, they produce excellent results with a little practice and understanding. Painting backwards is also another level of complexity....

I picked up the Eastwood 2k gloss clear. I'm just about at the point where I am about to apply the clear coat.
I am applying it over epoxy resin. Do I need to wait for the epoxy to fully cure, or is sanding hard enough?
I think it takes about 7-11...

I've never tried the WD40 Specialist but I did try the other two winners. The Frog Lube, and the Hornady One Shot.

I can't remember too much about the Frog Lube other than I didn't like the smell. There was (still is?) controversy surrounding it...

Thanks everybody. 8)

Thank you both, Jeff and Dan!

From my research, the best chrome out there is Molotow Liquid Chrome, but it is really only sold as pens (or as a pen refill). For something like wheels, it needs to be airbrushed. It seems to do better on some plastics than others, and I think it...

It had the small cockpit on the left and lines running the length of the body from the rear of the cockpit to the Gurney flap area. I am 100% sure the one I was looking for is that Viper body. No idea who originally made it but I have one on the way...

Hey thanks Dadio, I enjoy airbrushing/painting themed style bodies much like the old school super hero’s. 👍🏻😎

all of the Createx paint types will work.
Make sure you spray in thin layers and let dry in between.
Then back the paint job with some sort of Lexan spray paint like Tamiya PS series.
Silver works great and will keep the colors bright underneath.

I use Vallejo airbrush paint, or Createx, both work really well.
Apply in thin layers to get good adhesion.
Then finish it off w a spray can paint Like the Tamiya PS series.
This really helps to protect the body.

This one was done with Vallejo...

That body is close enough to a protech that you could just use those as examples. Tons of paint jobs around on the original body.

Yeah I know, 2014, old thread, yadda yadda.. :lol:

..but I’m glad I landed on this it’s really helped me out, awesome, always something to learn on here, loving it.

To follow along, basically apply a thin layer of clear paint, then paint over...

This is nice to hear. I never did get back to making mine yet. I'll still give it a go just to get the experience, even though I'll buy a handful for the TBG bodies. Need to do it regardless since I need to make new Kyosho Pro-XRT bodies as well....

The yellow is a reproduction Protech 1. The blue is a JConcepts Detonator Worlds (the red car is as well).

Note that the blue car has a different front setup, requiring that the body be cut more.

IMHO, the JConcepts bodies have a little better...

Proline basically re-issued the RCPS body from the late 80's-early 90's with some alterations. One of the more popular bodies of the day.

Bit late to the party but a cheat for this with rattle cans is to blow some into the lid & brush it into the hard to reach bits before spaying the rest.

Wrong scale but If you can find a 10L or something McAllister make a 300z

Screenshot_20211219-160115_Samsung Internet.jpg

Well Done mate, Liking the mid very much, im sitting on bodies and afraid to crack into them, only used tamiya rattle cans in the past.
Your post is inspiring me to give it a crack.

Great job

Thanks guys.

As the car paint seems to be stubborn and almost etched into the lexan I used the Carson and a fine abrasive pad rubbed them wiped with cotton wool. This seems to help although still have a cloudy white look to it. Gonna take some time to drag all...

How big are the holes? Are they extra screw holes that got drilled, or are they slightly bigger holes?
.

The holes are regular screw holes, one is for servo horn access and 2 more are for mounting the steering servo across from the standard...

I'm thinking all the usual ways of removing stickers or anything adhesive would be different for overspray film, because that film isn't applied with adhesive. Pulling it off with tape was a good idea. Maybe I'd have tried a hair dryer.

Sabula Tech should have something that will work.

Lighter fluid will turn the adhesive loose without damaging the paint. I've used it with paper towels and q-tips to clean up edges.

Here's the truck.....

Sorry for the crappy pic as I pinched it from the interwebs.

$_1-9.jpg

Hi,
I use Brake Fluid dot4 to remove paint from plastic parts.
Soak the parts 2 or 3 days in the Brake Fluid, then use a toothbrush to remove the paint.
After that hold it under Walter and clean it.
I had ever good results. And Brake Fluid does No...

That looks better than my probably 20th body, so take pride in it an congrats! :mrgreen:

Body prep and paint is still the most stressful part of an RC build IMO.

I used the camel yellow, backed with yellow and then silver. It is very close.

Screenshot_20210821-162512_Gallery.jpg

Funny i should notice this post after i went to some painting frustrations myself yesterday friday...and to top it off my choice of color for the body was camel yellow as well!

glad im not alone!

Maybe its a sign.

Double post...

The problem with the nova and many other bodies, is the front end catches a lot of air and deforms past 50-55 mph. A body mounted splitter will make this worse. Mount the front of the body as far forward as possible and brace the area behind the...

I didn't want to start a new thread, but does anyone have a maker / color that is very close to AE gold pan color? I understand that AE gold pan color comes in about eight different varieties, but any leads would help. I can't find any local places...

Stencil font.

I can't believe it was that easy! I knew I had seen that style 1000 times in my life, but couldn't place where. Thanks! :D

Sharp looking Rc10. Really like the paint design and the wheels compliment it nicely. Have you contemplated painting the wing at all? Either way, looks fantastic.

Excellent tip! Also, dont forget to vote in BOTM CONTEST each month.

:lol: :lol:

If only I could paint that well. Nice job.

That looks sweet. Going to be doing this on a body for an actual CE car. Any huge benefit to the decals on the inside? I have never done this.

Thanks homz...car still sitting there just like that...never raced it, lol

on the decals inside...not...

Nice! I did something similar with my Worlds.

These look SICK!

As a guitar shredder.. I approve of this paint job! Looks great!

While it's not a tub, I did use it to refresh my Traxxas motor plate and motor guard. They came out better than I hoped.

Wow that legitimately looks like brand new blue anodized aluminum parts !

The spaz stix chrome is by far the best for a true chrome result. Spaz stix paints have the best pigments on the market, but beware, unless it's a shelf queen, the chrome paint will chip and flake right off with any kind of impact. A close second...

Ya. I picked up one to replace an old Bolink one that got badly smoke damaged. My son is working on cleaning it up. I have quite a few to restore for a second time. Finally we are now back to a point in life where we can start picking things back...

I've tried nitro fuel too. If DOT3 brake fluid won't remove it, nitro fuel won't even touch it. :(

Thanks for mentioning that about Pactra paint by the way, good to know.

And I'll post my nitro fuel results on the 18-19 yr old paint.

Painted this one yesterday. Its an Andy's body that's produced and sold by Sabula Tech. I have been buying bodies from Sabula Tech for a couple years now and the quality has always been very good. I've always loved the classic Toyota Race Team...

I was unaware such a thing even existed. I imagine the fuzzy texture is paramount to diffusing the light to make it appear that dark.

Yeah, these things usually come down to money. They have the molds but not the will or ability to invest. Or who knows what happened? Maybe one more victim of COVID-19 (economically speaking). I see that Bob Stormer is selling a couple of NASCAR...

Update: the Pro is being built....i will start a thread over in Kyosho