I should have my wheels from the UK by the end of this week, then I get a nice picture
Meantime, I just had to make another part for the B1M...
Wing Stay Crossmember
Turned from a piece of 3/16" dia. titanium rod, threaded ends M2.5.
Found some red anodized aluminum 1/12 scale pan car caster spacers, reamed them out to fit the screws.
This was a real tricky part for me to make. I spent about 5 hours on it.
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
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Lonestar wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2017 3:38 pm
you're onto something here
You said it. I think the boy's got titanium in his blood.
Looks great Nomad, but what was extra tricky about this part?
Tricky part...
My lathe is all manual, a table top model, belt drive, 1/2 HP motor, Taig Micro Lathe that's pushing 30+ years of service and I got it used. I have one hand on the carriage wheel (left to right movement, other hand is holding a little bottle of cutting fluid! The only thing that I do use is a dial indicator and I only have one, on a magnetic base so it gets swapped from one axis to another, hence the time factor. I strive to make things exact... a bit anal about that kind of thing.
I love titanium, that gray silver color talks to me. It's fun to work with once you get the hang of it.
Well, my hat's off to you. I have one of the Micro Lathe II's; got it in the late '80's and it's manual as well. However, I've never achieved the results you have with yours. You obviously have some skill... and patience!
lathe4.JPG (14.02 KiB) Viewed 1179 times
lathe4.JPG (14.02 KiB) Viewed 1179 times
this is just a web photo; mine has a slightly different motor - and it's not nearly this clean.
I have the longer bed version, motor in the front. I use ER16 collets and a quick change tool post. I was never able to do much with the gold ano tool post, to much trouble with shimming the tool bits for me.
This is an old pic with the Taig collet. They're a decent, low priced option. The ER16's are quite a bit more precise. They only go up to 3/8" capacity, then you have to use the chuck.
Harbor Freight baby
It’s a lot more precise than I am
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It's time to stand up to the bully. Support the companies that support the industry, not the ones that tear it down. Say no to Traxxas Factory Works website
We have a new Harbor Freight store in my town since this fall and I've been in there many times. I always stop and look at that lathe. Wow, the stuff I could make with this if I only knew what I was doing. Unfortunately I never spent the time to learn the correct way to operate a lathe. My dad was a master machinist and could make just about anything on a lathe. I bought mine thinking I could use it to turn motor comms and maybe make some chassis spacers or body post etc. Over the years, I've used it for many purposes, some of which was actually turning metal. On the plus side, for all the time I've used it, I've never managed to get my hands or shirt sleeves caught or skin my knuckles on the chuck (a major achievement for me).
AE RC10 - Made In The Eighties, Loved By The Ladies.
Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
EDIT: I've decided to go with B1M as the official name for this car/kit. Yes, I had an earlier MM car that was a one-off that I called the B1M, but just think of that one as a very early prototype for this one :lol:
Some of you may remember my mid...
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I would take a scan of it! At least it would give me hope that I could bring that to someone who could possibly machine it for me in the future. :)
Okay, I have project ADHD (as most of you most likely do :lol: )! RIght now I'm working on releasing the B1M, starting the Ten4.1, looking at making a graphite version of the B1M (have yet to start a thread on that one... coming soon), and now I'm...
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Brian, you should consider machining the shafting out of tool steel in an annealed condition, w1 or o1 machines nicely and holds it's tolerance if you decide to temper it.
Donor RC10 (stealth or 6 gear chassis are both okay)
Complete set of Stealth transmission gears and bearings
Original Stealth Slipper or V2 slipper
Extra idler gear and bearings
B1M transmission case
B1M motor plate spacers
B1M...
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Putting the bulkhead and transmission in the chassis
I highly recommend you tap all holes that will be threaded. I can't guarantee the screws will self tap into the printed Nylon they way they do in molded parts. For the bulkhead, the 4 holes where...
Building Brian’s B1M conversion kit. Which arrived superfast from the States :D maybe be the 1st in the Uk ?. first thing I will say it’s not a shelf Queen . So its not spotless it gets raced . I mess about and change set ups a fair bit . Car for...
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Yes, true, but not quite an RC10 any more, even back then :lol:
(have you run it btw? How does it feel on the track?)
I would like to convert my RC10 Dual Sport to a mid-motor set-up. However I am at a loss as to how to properly undertake this task. First, where do I drill the holes if I am using a stealth transmission? If I leave the transmission in it's existing...
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Hi Sschering,
Thank you for that information, I will be putting it in my RC10 note book. :!:
Just got inspired by some threads on the Tekin conversion to post an old build. As per usual I had collected parts for a long time and wanted to build a mid motor conversion for vintage racing on modern carpet tracks. In 2014 I was ready to assemble...
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.... I hit the wall with the same frequency and force with or without it.