Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
- lmw94002
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
Could always nickel plate and polish to get that "shiny" look.
--
RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
- NomadRacer
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
Nickel plated dogbones... wow, that is nice!
I cut the battery cups so a shorty lip battery fits in length, did some cool holes on the ends. Next is getting the holes drilled to mount them to the chassis. That's going to take some serious planning so I don't mess up!

I've got a Futaba R203GF 2.4GHz Rx due the end of the week.
I cut the battery cups so a shorty lip battery fits in length, did some cool holes on the ends. Next is getting the holes drilled to mount them to the chassis. That's going to take some serious planning so I don't mess up!

I've got a Futaba R203GF 2.4GHz Rx due the end of the week.
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- NomadRacer
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
USPS delivers "epic" goods this morning...
Got a brushed motor now, Trinity EP 1111 27T. Combined with a 81T/29T 48P gives me a 6.201 ratio. Am I in the "ballpark"? I'm not racing (unless against my own buggies) around my backyard.

I've not decided on a speed control yet, nothing to high priced, current technology, small footprint.
Got a brushed motor now, Trinity EP 1111 27T. Combined with a 81T/29T 48P gives me a 6.201 ratio. Am I in the "ballpark"? I'm not racing (unless against my own buggies) around my backyard.

I've not decided on a speed control yet, nothing to high priced, current technology, small footprint.
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- Lonestar
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
6.2:1 sounds terribly tall to me for a stocker... I'd go 9-ish.
On a more serious note, you will struggling to find lo-priced, hi-perf, small-case, recent brushed ESC's. you might come upon a few NOS competition-grade speedos from BiTD, but typically they will have been gathering dust on the shelves of shabby LHS for the past decade, for a good reason (hint: their price - only racers will buy top-notch speedoes... and racers have been racing BL for a decade or so now)
Brushed is not "current technology"NomadRacer wrote: ↑Wed May 17, 2017 10:14 am I've not decided on a speed control yet, nothing to high priced, current technology, small footprint.

On a more serious note, you will struggling to find lo-priced, hi-perf, small-case, recent brushed ESC's. you might come upon a few NOS competition-grade speedos from BiTD, but typically they will have been gathering dust on the shelves of shabby LHS for the past decade, for a good reason (hint: their price - only racers will buy top-notch speedoes... and racers have been racing BL for a decade or so now)
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Blue Was Better - now, Blue Is Bankrupt.
Facebook affiliate program manager: "They go out and find the morons for me".
Life is short. Waste it wisely.
- lmw94002
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
IMO ... With a brushed motor, that pinion seems a bit large... they don't have the torque of the brushless so you'd run smaller pinions to get the torque as the loss of some top-end speed. You said you were using LiPo batteries right? With a high mAh battery and a brushed motor, I'd probably start out with a much smaller pinion. You don't want to burn up that motor first time out if you run for 6+ minutes.
If I recall back in the day, I'd run about an 81 with a 21-23 for a 4min offroad race and that motor could be pretty damn hot. And that was with 2400mAh NiCd battery...
If I recall back in the day, I'd run about an 81 with a 21-23 for a 4min offroad race and that motor could be pretty damn hot. And that was with 2400mAh NiCd battery...
--
RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
- jwscab
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
yeah, way too low......go with something like 20/81 or so. Especially if you will be encountering grass or rough surface. You will smoke that stock motor if you gear too tall.
with a stock motor and just playing around, you almost can't put too small of a pinion on it....it will be comparatively 'quick' within a wide range of teeth 21-17.
with a stock motor and just playing around, you almost can't put too small of a pinion on it....it will be comparatively 'quick' within a wide range of teeth 21-17.
- NomadRacer
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
1. I will be using lipo (shorty) batteries.
2. I went with the 27T brushed motor to prevent hurting the Lethal Weapon transmission with to much power? I can, and have a 17.5 brushless motor to use but wound have to open up the top slot on the motor plate for the 3mm screw. I'm not afraid to do that if needed. If the 17.5 is to much for the transmission I also have a 25.5 brushless? I really don't want to buy another 90 dollar brushless motor.
3. The only 48P pinions I have on hand are a 20T and a 29T. With the 20T I can't engage the spur gear and the motor is all the way against the transmission. Not sure what to do other than switch to a brushless motor. It's possible (have to search my stash) to go with some 64P gears.
4. What I mean by "current technology" in an ESC is something new, not old school or vintage. I had been looking at the Reedy SC550. It's lipo capable and for brushed motors. At around 55 bucks, not a bad price for me.
Thank you guys for all the information you have provided and I hope you'll can help me get straight.
2. I went with the 27T brushed motor to prevent hurting the Lethal Weapon transmission with to much power? I can, and have a 17.5 brushless motor to use but wound have to open up the top slot on the motor plate for the 3mm screw. I'm not afraid to do that if needed. If the 17.5 is to much for the transmission I also have a 25.5 brushless? I really don't want to buy another 90 dollar brushless motor.
3. The only 48P pinions I have on hand are a 20T and a 29T. With the 20T I can't engage the spur gear and the motor is all the way against the transmission. Not sure what to do other than switch to a brushless motor. It's possible (have to search my stash) to go with some 64P gears.
4. What I mean by "current technology" in an ESC is something new, not old school or vintage. I had been looking at the Reedy SC550. It's lipo capable and for brushed motors. At around 55 bucks, not a bad price for me.
Thank you guys for all the information you have provided and I hope you'll can help me get straight.

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- GoMachV
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
If you haven't seen this, it may help with ratio choices. The spur on the LW is usually larger than what you would run on a stealth to help with the distance between the gears
- lmw94002
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
I'd pick up a larger 48p spur (maybe a pinion or two) and run the 20T pinion. Shouldn't be too hard to find an 87T spur. I don't the tranny so I can't talk to it limiting motor pinion fit to the spur. That pinion/spur would work find in a brushless system too. I run a much smaller pinion in my brushless SC10 than is recommended... which is fine for me cause it's still pretty damn fast.
I probably have a glut of 48P stuff in the bottom of the pit box... 64P would be risky if you're bashing in the yard/street.
I probably have a glut of 48P stuff in the bottom of the pit box... 64P would be risky if you're bashing in the yard/street.
--
RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
- NomadRacer
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
Thanks for the help.
I'm going to dig deep in my old TC4 touring car box, maybe there's some 48P gears in it that I've forgotten about.
Yes, 64P would not be good to use but I have a lot of it stashed away with an AE RC12R5.2 on road car.
I'm going to dig deep in my old TC4 touring car box, maybe there's some 48P gears in it that I've forgotten about.
Yes, 64P would not be good to use but I have a lot of it stashed away with an AE RC12R5.2 on road car.
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- NomadRacer
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
I checked my stash, nothing but small spurs and big pinions... bummer. I've ordered an 87T Kimbrough spur gear.
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- lmw94002
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
Depending on how far off you were with the mesh, you might want to even get the next size up.
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RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
- NomadRacer
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- lmw94002
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
LOL, ok that should have you covered... why not order some pinions ? i had like 15-35 in the box I think... 

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RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
RC10CE 6-gear, RC10 Team, 10L, 10LSS, Worlds, B2, B4 TC, FT TC3, Nitro SC8, SC18, RC18LM, FT SC10.2, Worlds-ReRe, B6, B6D
--Builds--
SSC10 build - http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=41740
- NomadRacer
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Re: Factory Works/A&L C2 build...
Yes, I'll get some more pinions. To bad I can't trade all these big tooth ones for smaller.
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